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Beyond Penn's Treaty

Journal of a Journey

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water are unladen, and those intended to be re-
shipped and taken into Lake Erie are carted or car-
ried by land above the great Falls. Thence to New-
ark, it being a newly settled town at the mouth of
the river Niagara, containing about one hundred
houses. It is a beautiful place opposite the American
fort, called Niagara Fort

, and just where the river
empties into Lake Ontario which is another wonder-
ful fresh water sea in this northern country. Lodged
at George Bradshaw's. In this place oats is 6d. per
quart, hay 14d. per night for horses. This day's ride,
twenty-two miles.


Rode fifteen miles up the river to William

's. Left our horses there are walked about a
mile to a meeting appointed by Nathan Smith and
William Blakey, in a meeting-house near the Falls,
called the Federal Meeting House, it being built by
the inhabitants for any minister of any religious de-
nomination to preach in, but I understand meetings
are very rare in it. No Friends live hereabouts but
William Lunday, and he, by some means, forfeited
his right before he came here, but is kind to us. I
thought the opportunity was owned, particularly to-
ward the close. In the afternoon William Blakey,
Nathan Smith, and Thomas Stewardson set off for
Black Creek; Jacob Paxson being very poorly, stayed
at Lunday's; James Cooper and myself went about five
miles down the river to view a great curiosity called
the whirlpool. On our way we met with an acceptable
repast on excellent peaches. We came to the bank of
the river, which I believe is three hundred feet above
the water, nearly perpendicular, on which we had
a fair view of that astonishing place, the river rush-
ing with great impetuosity against the bank or wall
of rocks at a short turn in the river and then turning
in a cove of perhaps ten acres in which it whirls
round and round, striving to escape at a narrow pas-
sage of perhaps one hundred yards, being all the
opening there is between the high hills. Into this
pool abundance of logs and timber is carried and per-
haps cannot get out for some weeks. It is amazing
to behold the whirls that are formed, the logs sucked
down and some time after shooting up (perhaps 100
yards from the place they went down, end foremost)
fifteen or twenty feet perpendicular out of the water;
that upon the whole it is an indescribably agitated
place. Returned and lodged at William Lunday's.


William Lunday

accompanied James Cooper
and myself in order to take a satisfactory view of the
great cataract. We went about three-quarters of a
mile below the Falls and then descended a bank of
lime-stone rocks, I suppose nearly 300 feet, which
was not quite perpendicular, to the surface of the
water, some times holding by roots, some times by
twigs, and some of the way down a ladder, other
times sticking our toes in the cavities and holding
by the craggy parts of the rocks. When down, clam-
bered along the rocks, logs, slabs, and timber up the
river to the place where the water shoots over the
rock and falls 160 feet. We went as far as we though
was safe, being as wet, with the spray of water and
sweat, as if we had been in a heavy shower. I had
an inclination to go further in behind the water, but
Lunday said it was dangerous; for, as he said, if the
wind were to shift against us we should be in danger
of being suffocated with the spray and sulphur which
smelled very strong. I though there was not quite
so much danger as he alleged, believining he was a
good deal timid; however, I thought best to decline,
lest I should suffer for my temerity. On clambering
along the rocks by the water with a wall or mountain
of rocks 160 feet high in some place over my head,
hanging twelve or fifteen feet over plumb, it appeared
truly awful and dangerous, which put me upon think-
ing what my view was in going into such apparent
danger, as it is evident great columns of them fre-
quently break off and fall down; but as I believed it
was not altogether to gratify an indle curiosity, for the
whole of the prospect led me into a reverent frame of
mind, admiring the wonderful works, and in some
measure adoring the Great Author, I then though if
I should then be buried in oblivion, perhaps my soul
was as much in a state of aspiration and adoration as
it might be when the unavoidable event should take
place. This consideration led me on without much
fear at that time, though naturally timid. I need
not undertake to describe this wonderful phenom-
enon, as many pens have been employed in setting
forth its magnitude; but as I have taken a view of
the river in places many miles down, I am fully of
the min dthat the great Falls at some period were nine
miles farther down the river and that they are gradu-
ally wearing up, and perhaps in time may drain the
great Lake Erie. It is wonderful to behold the agi-
tation of the water in the rapids above the falls and
also below them, column after column dashing
against each other and rising a great height with
such foaming and confusion that the whole appears
truly awful. We were very wet when we left the
place; got on our horses and rode to Chippewa. Fed
our horses and took a snatch ourselves, then rode to
Black Creek settlement, twenty-four miles, and
lodged at Anna Morris', who is a kind, agreeable
young widow.


Attended the meeting at Asa Schooly

's, it
being large for that place. After meeting we had a
conference with the members of that meeting and laid
before them the need we though they had of a house
to meet in, which they seemd spirited to build. On
considering their circumstances,--being most of them
new settlers and not in very affluent life,--we made
them an offer of thirty dollars toward purchasing
materials; but they modestly declined accepting it,
and said they could do themselves. I have now pre-
pared things in order to set my face homewards to-
morrow, which feels very pleasant.


Wm. Blakey

, Nathan Smith, Jacob Paxson,
Thomas Stewardson, and myself lodged at our kind
friend, Asa Schooly's, last night, who with his valued
wife, equipped us for our journey through the wilder-
ness. Early in the morning, after taking an affec-
tionate farewell of our kind hose, I set off with Thom-
as Stewardson
, and rode thirteen miles to the ferry.
Had a fine passage over the river which is a terror to
many, then rode three miles up the lake to the mouth of
Buffalo creek, put up our horses and waited until all the
rest of our company came, which is now augmented
to the number of eleven--William Lippincott, John