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Beyond Penn's Treaty

Journal of a Journey

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[THE following journal, kept by Isaac Coates

, a
Friend, of Caln, Chester County, describes a jour-
ney taken to visit "the Indian Country" in Wes-
tern Pennsylvania, Ohio, and New York, in 1799 and
1803. It gives an animated description of the coun-
try passed through, the experiences of the travelers,
etc., as well as many interesting details concerning
Friends and the Indians.

Isaac was the son of Samuel Coates

, of East Caln
township, and was born Fourth month, 12, 1748.
He married Hannah Stalker, of the same township,
(b. 3d mo. 9, 1752), and lived on a farm that had been
his father's, near the present Caln Station, on the
Pennsylvania Railroad. It was from here, presuma-
bly, that he set off on the journey described below.
He was a member of Caln Meeting, and is buried in
that burying-ground. Among his children was Lind-
ley Coates
, a prominent and esteemed Friend, active
in the anti-slavery movement. Lydia, a daughter,
(b. 2nd mo.6, 1778), was a minister among Friends,
and died in 1839. She married Mark Hughes, and it
is their son William, of Avondale, Chester county,
who has handed us the Journal of his grandfather
for publication. It will run through several issues of

6th-day. the 23d of the Eighth month, 1799,

after a
solid time in my family I left home on my journey
into the Indian Country and Upper Canada. Dined at
Robt. Moore's

fourteen miles. Reached Wm. Webb's,
twelve miles, and lodged that night; at both places
kindly entertained.


Dined at Wm. Wright's

, where we were af-
fectionately received With some difficulty crossed
the Susquehannah, (the river being low); passed
through York Town to my brother Caleb Kirk's.
This day's ride, twenty-five miles.


Stayed meeting at York

, and lodged at
brother Caleb's two nights.


Rode to Warrington

, eleven miles; attended
quarterly meeting, after which rode to Thos. Thorn-
, eight miles; lodged and fared sumptuously.


Rode over and through the gap in several
mountains, past a furnace known by the name of
Kittera's. The precipices on both right and left of
one of them exhibited a magnificent appearance.
After which we entered a limestone valley of good
land, though not improved, as I apprehended, in the
best manner. Fed our horses at the stone tavern,
sixteen miles; [then] to Shippensburg

twelve and
one-half miles, part of which, notwithstanding it was
in the valley, appeared to be very poor, covered with
pine of small growth and barren oaks. A few miles
before we reached Shippensburg we passed through
some excellent wheat land, being covered with black
oak and hickory. Dined at Shippensburg. The gen-
eral part of the corn thus far very poor; buckwheat,
in some place, pretty good. Then proceeded to a
small village called Strasburg, ten miles; through
tolerable land but no water which I thought fit to
drink for myself or horse for twenty miles. Then
ascended the mountain called the Blue Ridge, the
ascent and descent of which is three miles, affording
a prospect which shows the wonderful works of the
Author of Nature. Crossed a branch of the Conodo-
guinet running to the right, and lodged at Skinner's
in Horse Valley. This day's ride, forty-one and a
half miles.


In the morning, ascended and descended
two large mountains, the valley between them called
Path Valley, in which is a small village called Ferris-

; it being seven miles across those two moun-
tains. In the aforesaid valley is a fine stream run-
ning to the right, called Conogocheak [Conoco-
cheague]; and a pretty good settlement. After
crossing the mountains, very poor broken land thinly
inhabited, to Fort Littleton, twelve miles from
Skinner's; here we breakfasted. In crossing those
mountains and valleys my mind was much em-
ployed in contemplating the wonderful works of an
all-wise Creator.

To John Skinner's

on the top of Sidling Hill,
eleven miles, being a tremendous mountain, on the
ridge of which we rode about four miles; at the end
thereof, and descending the mountain, a grand pros-
pect opened of the Allegheny Mountain and what
appeared a tolerably level valley, considerably im-
proved with plantations; but in riding through it we
found it to be very hilly, approached to mountains;
then crossed a branch of Juniata, running to the
right, and rode to Hartley's, where we expect to lodge.
The river was frequently on our right hand and fre-
quently near our left hand, and we on an eminence
perhaps of one or two hundred feet, some place ap-
proaching near perpendicular. This day's ride, thir-
ty-nine miles.


Rode up the valley through some tolerably
good limestone land to Bedford

, six miles; crossed two
branches of the aforesaid water. After leaving Bed-
passed through a gap in Wills' Mountain and
over Juniata again. Here is some of the best land
and the best improved I have yet seen amongst those
mountains. To our right to Stotler on the ridge, in
divers places was oats growing of a good length; some
ripe, some almost ripe, and some standing in shock.
From thence to Berlin, thirteen miles. On our way
we met an old man who had just killed a large buck
which had horns with a number of prongs, covered
with the velvet, which he had skinned and had some