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Beyond Penn's Treaty

Journal of a Journey

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and _____ Carpenter joining with us to go to the
States. Four of us lodged at Joseph Elicot's who was
very kind, and gave us a good supper and breakfast.


Set off from Elicot

's, it having been a very wet
night and dull morning. Rode eighteen and one-half
miles to where there is a large new house building for
a house of entertainment. Fed our horses and dined
on our own provisions. The land the most of this stage
an open plain full of lime-stone which doth not appear
to me to be very valuable, the grass and herbage of
an inferior kind; some of the way pretty good land
covered with beech and sugar maple. From thence
to Tonawanda, a large stream running into Lake On-
tario, 11 1/2 miles. Between those places there is some
excellent land covered with beech, sugar maple, bass,
black walnut, shell-bark, hickory, poplar, and divers
other sorts of timber. Just after we crossed the
Tonawanda I rode a few rods to the left hand to see
the memorable and celebrated rock under which
Captain Lindley and his men, about two years ago, en-
camped and lodged a very cold, wet night without
fire; and just after I got into the road again, had the
mortification to lose a great part of my horse-feed by
means of the bag's coming untied and scattering on
the ground, which my mare may have cause to lament
in this wilderness country. Then rode eleven miles
further to a small stream, struck up a fire and lodged
in the woods at the east end of the White Oak Plains,
having passed over some very poor land, some good,
and a large plain pretty much without timber or luxu-
riant herbage. On our way this day we met many
people moving from Bucks county and the Jerseys to
Canada. It is amazing what numbers of people emi-
grate from those two places over the Niagara river.
Where we have pitched our tent there are several
other fires, at some of which are several Indians
out hunting. They have large bundles of skins. This
day's ride, forty-one miles.


Set off early and rode to Elicot

's store-house,
thirteen miles, having an order from him to get any-
thing ourselves or horses stood in need of. This stage
almost all the way excellent limestone land covered
with ash, beech, bass, sugar maple, etc., in abun-
dance; a deep soil and not so broken with the rock
nor yet so dead a level as in some places, and is tol-
erably well watered with lively streams. Soon after
I set off this morning, my mind became serene,
which led me into an humble state, and thankful-
ness and gratitude to Him who hath hitherto pre-
served me and showered down many blessings and
favors upon me, ascended from my soul, accompanied
with strong desires that the rest of my time may be
spent in a measure worthy of such favors. From
thence to two new taverns just by a large spring;
seven miles of this distance the land much as before,
when we came to a creek running to the left called
Kittle Creek, just at a great fall over a large flat rock,
called the Buttermilk Falls, then immediately en-
tered land of an inferior quality, into a large road I
suppose opened by the State of New York, on which
there are many new improvements. From thence
to Parsons's on said road, being a new tavern; pretty
good accomodations; eleven miles. On the way we
crossed the Genesee river, four miles form our lodging,
it being a large stream running into the lake. On
the west siade of said river there is a small Indian
village on an extense of flat or plain of very rich land
covered with high grass, I suppose some thousands of
acres. This day's ride, thirty-six miles, in which space
we met fifteen or sixteen wagons with families and
many other people moving to Upper Canada. So great
is the emigration to that government.


Rode ten miles along the aforesaid road
which is at least 100 feet wide. I was very much
surprised to see the improvement which is made in
this new settled country, particularly along this road.
I am informed it is but ten years since it first began
to be settled; and now there is not half a mile with-
out a house, and many of them very good ones--what
may be called elegant--many capital barns; a great
deal of land is cleared and there are very good cattle
in the fields. The people principally emigrated from
the New England states, and this is a specimen of
their industry. When we had ridden ten miles from
our lodging we parted, Joshua Sharples

, Nathan
, James Cooper and myself turning off the
main road to the north in order to pay a visit to
some Friends who are settled at a place called Mud
Creek. The other friends all propose to go directly
home. We then rode eight miles to Jacob Smith's;
dined and rested the afternoon; here we propose to
lodge. The most of the way from the great road
here, appears to be a light, sandy land, thinly tim-
bered and I think may be called poor. About one
mile before we came to Smith's, we again came into
rich beech and sugar maple land. Our landlord doth
not appear to be much polished, but I believe is
hearty in entertaining us in his way.


Rode from Jacob Smith

's seven miles to his
brother Jeremiah Smith's. When I came in sight of
the house, although the barn and farm looked well,
yet the house appeared so miserable I was ready to
wish I had not come into those parts; but in a little
while after I entered my mind was saluted with some-
thing like "Peace be to this house," and I felt myself
very happy in company with the family, and believe
that divers of them live near the fountains of good.
We stayed till evening and then rode two miles to
Abraham Lapham' and lodged.

[To be Continued.]