Header img
Beyond Penn's Treaty

Journal of a Journey

Page out of 37

and rode through a body of rich land thirteen miles
to Canandaigua,

[this] being a most elegant and beau-
tiful town here in the woods, containing near one
hundred houses, many of which are truly grand. It
stands near the outlet of a beautiful lake, about
eighteen or twenty miles long and two or three wide.
We crossed the outlet and rode four or five miles up
the side of the lake, and then generally through the
woods, except some few settlements, to Judge Pot-
eighteen miles, where we got our horses well
fed and a good dinner, free of cost. Said Potter has
an elegant house and good farm; I suppose two hun-
dred acres of excellent land cleared, and a stock of
cattle of superior kind. We then rode five miles to
Morris Shepperd's, near the outlet of Crooked Lake
in Jerusalem, in Jemima Wilkinson's settlement; said
Shepperd being first cousin to Nathan Shepperd, late
of Philadelphia. Here we came up with Thomas
, John Shoemaker, and George Vaux
and propose to lodge here. George's horse holds
out. Thirty-six miles.


We all set off, Joseph Jones

still accompany-
ing us, and rode twenty-three miles to Bartel's mill,
where we got an excellent dinner. Here we met with
Thomas Clark, the turnpike man, who appeared in
distress. Said three of his children were dead, and
the other one had been very bad, and [was] not quite
well. His wife had lain sick and in distress for nearly
three months, and had not yet the use of all her
limbs. She now says she would not stay in this
country for all the land in it; so he proposes to try
to move her and his one child into our neighborhood
again. The most of the way from Jerusalem here,
is their land. We rode in the morning several miles
in sight of the Crooked Lake to our right hand; and
after riding some distance we came in sight of it to
our left, and saw where it empties into Mud Lake.
Rode down near that to this mill which is on the
outlet called Mud Creek; then rode down near the
same to Dolson's, where it empties into the Cohocton;
nine miles. On our way we passed several little
lakes, it being most of the way through a low piece
of land covered with lofty white pine, though not
very large, and, I think, an unhealthy place. Thirty-
two miles.


I rose up out of bed about four o'clock this
morning, haing had, I think, the most unmerciful
set of bed-fellows I ever experienced; for after I found
it was in vain to stand them battle, I submitted and
surrendered to them. But let me be as passive as I
would, they gave me no quarter, but continued to use
their offensive weapons upon me full as much as if
I had been striving to aggravate them; until I
thought best to plan a retreat, and am glad to escape
with whole bones, but am afraid some of them will
follow or keep with me all day. About six o'clock
we all set off and rode down the Cohoctontwelve
miles to the Painted Post

, through a bottom of pretty
good land. Fed our horses and parted with Joseph
, who hath been an agreeable company thus far.
Thence to Lindsley's, and dined; all the way up the
Tioga, twelve miles. At the Painted Post we crossed
the Cohocton; from Lindsley's to Berry's, ten miles,
where we propose to lodge. One mile from Lind-
crossed the Cowanesque. Thirty-four miles.


At Berry's

, on the Tioga, we have had as
good a supper and night's lodging as we could have
expected at Cheltenham or Caln. Nine miles; having
ridden forty-three miles up the Tioga and crossed it
eight or nine times, through a rich flat of land.
Thence to the block-house, eleven miles, it being de-
serted and without inhabitant that we discovered, ex-
cept one cat. On examining the house, we chose to
raise our tent, kindle a fire, and lie on the ground,
where we had a much more comfortable night than
we should have had if French Anthony had still
lived there. Thirty-two miles.


A little before day-break it began to thun-
der, and by the time it was light enough to set off, it
rained middling fast; but we could do no better than
to set off in it over the remainder of the Savage or
Allegheny Mountain, it being a very bad road, though
much better than four years ago. It rained until we
came to Trout Run, nine miles from the block-house

which is at the foot or lowermost part of the south
side of that great mountain, which is twenty miles
across from Peter's camp to Trout Run, and a great
part of it pretty good land, but rough and rocky in
some places. We then rode down a narrow valley,
down which the aforesaid run descends, to Reynold's
tavern, fifteen miles from the block-house. In about
four miles' riding down the valley, we crossed Trout
Run thirty times. Here we breakfasted and dined
both at once. Thence to Williamsport, fourteen miles,
it being a place we passed going out, [we] having
now performed a revolution by encircling a very large
circuitous route of settled and unsettled country.
Here fed our horses. Thos. Stewardson,, John Shoe-
and George Vaux propose to stay all night;
Isaac Bonsal and myself rode three miles farther to
the widow Harris's and lodged. Thirty-two miles.

16th and first of the week.

Rode nine miles to
Wm. Ellis's

, and put up my mare, then walked one
mile back to meeting. There I met all my compan-
ions who with me came to Ellis's to dinner. In the
afternoon I discovered my mare to be in such a con-
dition that she could move but with great difficulty;
we supposing her to be foundered, sent for some tar
and applied it in the usual way. Went to bed not
expecting her to be fit to travel to-morrow.


My mare rather better, but not fit to ride.
We set off; I walked and drove her before me,
and walked to Milton

, a beautiful town on the bank
of the west branch of the Susquehanna, sixteen
miles, and dined. Thence to Sunbury, fourteen
miles, and lodged; having walked about twenty-five
miles, my brethren spelling me some times. North-
is a town about twelve miles below Mil-
, standing in the point between the west and the
northeast branches of the Susquehanna, which we
passed through just before we crossed the northeast
branch and about two miles above Sunbury. Had
it not been that the situation of my mare and walk-
ing on foot occasioned some unpleasant sensations, it
would have been a very pleasant day's travel down
the river through a good deal of good land pretty
well improved. I believe each of those three towns